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Somewhere between Tuba City and Wait, where even am I?—there she was. A woman’s face, forty feet tall, staring out from the crumbling wall of an old roadside building. Her eyes didn’t follow me as I drove by—they stopped me. Literally. I pulled over on that lonely stretch of Highway 89, dust kicking up behind me, and realized this wasn’t some random graffiti. This was a story.
Welcome to The Painted Desert Project, one of Arizona’s most quietly powerful art experiences—part road trip, part open-air gallery, part love letter to the people of the Navajo Nation.
The Road That Sneaks Up on You
If you’ve ever driven that stretch between Flagstaff and Page, you know the rhythm: wide prairies, long horizons, old dormant volcanos, the kind of silence that feels alive. It’s easy to zone out, to let your playlist and the hum of the tires take over. But then, if you’re paying attention, the landscape starts to change—not just the mountains and meadows, but the walls.
Grain silos, abandoned gas stations, old trading posts—suddenly they’re wrapped in faces. Massive black-and-white portraits, printed from photographs and pasted onto these weathered surfaces. The contrast is striking: art that fades and cracks with the desert wind, blending into the land that inspired it.
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It’s called the Painted Desert Project, and it was started by Dr. Chip Thomas, a physician, photographer, and artist who’s lived and worked on the Navajo Nation for decades. You might know him by his street art name, Jetsonorama—and if you don’t yet, you will.
The Story Behind the Paint
Back in 2009, Dr. Thomas began wheatpasting photographs of local Navajo people onto roadside structures, turning these forgotten walls into canvases for community pride and storytelling. Over time, the project grew into a collaboration between local youth, visiting artists, and travelers who happened to notice.
Each mural tells a story—sometimes quiet, sometimes defiant. A grandmother’s face layered with the textures of a crumbling gas station. Children laughing across the side of a barn. Historical photos reborn in modern light.
It’s art that doesn’t shout for your attention—it waits for you to earn it.
Dr. Thomas once said his goal was to “reflect back the beauty of the community to itself.” That’s what struck me most. These murals aren’t for tourists—they’re for the people who live here. We just have the privilege of seeing them if we slow down long enough.
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How to See It (and How Not To)
Most of the murals are scattered along Highway 89 and Route 160, between Gray Mountain, Cameron, Tuba City, and Bitter Springs. There’s no official map, and that’s kind of the point. You have to look. The best way to experience them is the old-fashioned way—eyes open, no rush, camera down until you’ve actually looked.
If you’re driving from Flagstaff to Page, give yourself at least an extra hour. Pull off safely when you see one of the murals, but don’t block driveways or wander onto private land. These are living communities, not roadside attractions.
And maybe skip the geotagging. Let other travelers find them the way you did—by paying attention.
Road Trip Layer: The Karen Way
If you know me, you know I’m all about weaving real experiences into travel....the kind that make you feel something. So here’s how I’d build a day around the Painted Desert Project:
Start in Flagstaff
Grab breakfast (and in my case, an Iced Fuel from Blackrock—because you know I don’t do coffee) before hitting the road north. Take Highway 89 toward Cameron.
Stop 1: Wupatki National Monument
About 45 minutes from Flagstaff, pull off for one of the most underrated historic sites in Arizona. Wupatki was once home to thriving Indigenous communities long before Route 66 was a twinkle in anyone’s eye. Walk the short loop trails past ancient pueblos and stone structures that still hum with desert heat.
It’s one of those places that makes you whisper without meaning to.
Stop 2: The Murals (Wupatki → Tuba City)
This is where you start to watch the walls. There’s no official sign saying “Art this way!”—you just start noticing. Maybe it’s a portrait under the eaves of a gas station. Maybe it’s a family in monochrome staring across the desert. You’ll feel when you’ve found one.
Take your time. Step back. Feel the mix of beauty and honesty.
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Stop 3: Tuba City or Return to Flagstaff
If you keep going north, Tuba City makes an easy turnaround point (and if you stay overnight, check out the Tuba City Trading Post and local Diné eateries). Otherwise, head back toward Flagstaff as the sunset paints the mesas every shade of fire.
Stop 4: Cameron Trading Post
You’ll hit Cameron about an hour before Wupatki. It’s a perfect rest stop—but more than that, it’s a piece of living history. The trading post has been operating since 1916 and is still Navajo-owned. Inside, you’ll find local art, jewelry, and rugs worth more than any souvenir shop trinket. And yes, the fry bread tacos are absolutely worth it.
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Why It Matters
The Painted Desert Project isn’t just about art—it’s about visibility. About giving voice and form to people who’ve been here for centuries, long before the highways, the road-trippers, or the hashtags.
It’s also about changing how we travel. Instead of blowing through the Navajo Nation on the way to the Grand Canyon or Antelope Canyon, we can slow down and listen—to the land, to the art, to the stories that aren’t ours but that we can honor by paying attention.
For travelers like me (and probably you), that’s the good stuff—the reason we go at all.
If You Go
Route: Flagstaff → Wupatki National Monument → Cameron Trading Post → Tuba City → return or continue to Page.
Drive time: About 3.5–4 hours round trip, plus stops.
Best time: Spring or fall for cooler temps and vibrant desert color.
Respect reminders: Stay on public roads, don’t climb on structures, and always ask before photographing local people.
Bring: Water, sun protection, and a willingness to get a little lost.
The Lesson in the Paint
Out here, art doesn’t hang in climate-controlled museums. It breathes on cinderblock walls, fades in the wind, and lives in the stories of the people who call this desert home. It’s beauty with grit. And honestly, it’s the kind of experience that reminds you travel isn’t about checking boxes—it’s about connection.
So yeah—pull over. Take the detour. Let the Painted Desert Project remind you that every highway holds a heartbeat if you’re willing to listen.
Because life’s too short not to take the damn trip.
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#OffTheMapWithKaren #PaintedDesertProject #NavajoNation #ArizonaRoadTrip #CulturalTravel #TravelAdvisorLife #SeeTheWorldBetter
Discover Arizona’s Painted Desert Project, a stunning highway art experience by Navajo Nation artist Chip Thomas. Road trip itinerary, local tips, and hidden gems from travel advisor Karen.
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